Pinch Chinese has Soho style. The nicely-lit bistro features graffiti-style Chinese characters on the walls and a cheeky menu of “scarf it down” ma po tofu and “crack sauce” for spicy wontons. Among the best dumplings on offer are those stuffed with earthy mushrooms, bursting with flavor. Humanely-raised Creekstone skirt steak is ultra-tender, sliced and fanned out on delicately seasoned fried rice. Meaty, Niman Ranch–sourced cumin ribs and sautéed seasonal greens are other top choices. Drink options include deftly made cocktails and an extensive wine list.