When it comes to cuisine cross-pollination, Italian-Korean isn't a mash-up you hear about every day. If you're ever going to try it, Piora is the place to do so. Chris Cipollone, of Italian heritage, made a splash at a Midtown restaurant called Tenpenny /venues/tenpenny and here teams up with proprietor Simon Kim, who formerly managed The Mark Restaurant by Jean Georges. They've cherry-picked from their respective legacies, evident off the bat with spreads of whipped lardo and caviarlike seaweed butter to melt into hot monkey rolls. The soft bread is also great for sopping up the sauce that comes with an appetizer of barbecued octopus with fermented pepper, basil and pine nuts. Pastas are outstanding and have stimulating twists, such as red wine rigatoni with duck sausage, spigarello (an heirloom variety of rapini) and charred fig. The sleek, sophisticated 55-seat space offers picturesque views of a verdant back garden.