Sara Jenkins became the darling of the East Village when she opened her Roman-style sandwich shop, Porchetta, a few years back. Up the street a couple of blocks is Porsena, her take on Italian basics. Expect the ultimate expression of pasta with meat ragout, spaghetti with clam sauce and lasagna baked in individual terra-cotta casseroles. The complex melding of flavors gives the sense they've been cooking for hours, and weren't just slapped together. It's also hard to resist cannolichie con una marea di formaggi, little twists of pasta enveloped with many cheeses. The space is warm and inviting, with a bar that's comfortable for solo diners and a dining room quiet enough for conversation.