The prettily named South of the Clouds has a narrow well-lit storefront that makes it look like an ordinary Chinese restaurant. Inside, though, it sets itself apart with slurpy, soothing Yunnan rice noodles. Other highlights include a deconstructed concoction called Crossing the Bridge—for which your server assembles noodles, beef, pork, fish, black-skinned chicken, bok choy and scallion tableside in a boiling-hot chicken broth that’s simmered for four hours. Even better: the portions are huge.
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