SRO could have been just another great pizza joint if not for the ingenuity of Giulio Adriani, who made it a speakeasy accessed by a password and secret door—much more intriguing. Pertinent details are found on its website. It's not for slices or sharing; patrons must each go with the $38 prix-fixe menu, and leftovers can be boxed up. The narrow room (found to the left of the host desk at Espoleta, Adriani's tapas and wine bar) can only fit two dozen; it's as much about the fun experience as the food. Subway-tiled walls are filled with wooden boxes holding old bottles that look like they were found at an archeological dig, and the music leans toward vintage Bowery days: Ramones, Lou Reed, early David Bowie. Adriani's celebrated montanara pizza is made of delicious fried dough and topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil. He has won numerous international awards; his conventionally fired crusts are impeccable.
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