Great sushi is not cheap, but it's not outrageous at this East Village standout either. The young David Bouhadana is a rising-star chef, studiously re-creating what he learned from masters in Japan and New York. Why does the amberjack and striped jack taste as soft and unfishy as anything in Japan? The Hokkaido uni so intense and creamy? It was just flown in, of course. The best night to go is Tuesday, when everything is freshly arrived (some of it comes from Maine, too). The clientele is mellow, and it's fairly easy to get a table or one of the 14 comfy leather chairs at the counter. Wednesday to Saturday is more hectic (it's closed Sunday and Monday). Hot dishes are professionally executed and cost a fraction of the sushi: red miso soup, seafood-and-vegetable tempura, lightly fried eggplant and deep-fried soft shell shrimp are all under $10. The sake and wine list are well above average, and beer lovers shouldn't miss the unfiltered, wheat-based Ginga Kogen.