Go to Gowanus for some of the most interesting cooking in the City. Attention to detail is paramount at The Pines. An amuse-gueule arrives, a single chilled garbanzo bean with a droplet of whipped tofu and a dusting of everything spice. Sparkling, slightly bitter blood orange soda comes at the end, a throat-clearing digestif. Bring cash (credit cards are not accepted) for crazily inspired dishes like cappellacci with oxtail, satsuma (Japanese citrus fruit) and black truffle or cabbage with smoked jowl, huckleberries and creamy sheep's-milk yogurt (the best cabbage salad you ever ate). Angelo Romano (ex-Lupa, Roberta's) is a bold, experimental chef, but the space looks nothing like a lab. Dried bunches of flowers hang from the pressed-tin ceiling, and one section of a wall holds numbered keys, suggesting an outdated hotel lobby or maybe a hardware store. Romano is endlessly curious and restless, altering his menu every day. To please patrons who want something more straightforward, there are also plates of carefully chosen cheese and salumi to be washed down with beer.