Union Square Cafe, on East 16th Street, was the mother ship for Danny Meyer (Gramercy Tavern, Blue Smoke, The Modern), but ended its 30-year run in 2015 due to a rent hike. Its rebirth a few blocks away at the end of 2016 was cause for joy. The bi-level establishment looks similar yet grander, more polished; sentimentalists should race to the intimate bar upstairs, cut from a length of the original bar. Chef Carmen Quagliata has updated the New American menu while retaining the classic burger. There’s also a delightful, if unusual, pasta: candele (think hollow spaghetti) with carrots, Fresno chilies, Greek yogurt and pancetta.