Wassail is a modern tavern celebrating American hard cider, plus fine varieties from the around the world, many of them served on draft. If cider isn't on your radar, look to the full bar for refreshments. Wife-and-husband owners Jennifer Lim and Ben Sandler, who got into cider at their Astoria restaurant Queens Kickshaw, think vegetables match the libation best; dishes here are so delightfully varied and earthy that meat is not much missed. Mushrooms galore, plus fried spinach pasties with English cheddar fondue and leeks dressed up with spaetzle, green garlic and truffle butter are eminently satisfying. There's also a creative tasting menu featuring seasonal things like peas with argan oil and paratha and roasted beets with goat cheese and pistachio.