Down a semi-hidden alleyway bordering Chinatown is a big, handsome saloon that’s best to hit in the quiet of the afternoon. Au Cheval is a Chicago import from restaurateur Brendan Sodikoff (4 Charles Prime Rib) that’s mobbed at dinner. The staff bursts with Midwestern-style friendliness, and the portions are preposterous. Use a steak knife to slice through the towering double cheeseburger, and definitely share the heaping potato hash with shredded duck heart gravy and a fried egg. There’s a good beer list, strong drinks and, at the front, a Sawada Coffee bar.