Gloria looks like a glass-walled jewel box, tasteful and chic, perched on a quiet street in Hell’s Kitchen. The small pescatarian restaurant is named for the mother of chef-partner Diego Garcia. Garcia’s impressive résumé includes the Michelin-starred Contra and Le Bernardin. The Eastern Seaboard–sourced fish is ultra-fresh and creatively presented: black bass tartare comes with curled ribbons of watermelon radish, and the lovely Jonah crab is draped with bouillabaisse sabayon. Partner Phil Johnson is also a sommelier and assembled the natural wine list.