After founding Han Dynasty in Philadelphia, Han Chiang was greeted like an emperor when he opened a branch in the East Village, so starved were the people for great Szechuan food. The cold sesame noodles are not gloppy, the salt-and-pepper shrimp not too salty and the chili oil is homemade. Dried red chilies are used as garnishes on several dishes, but if you're sensitive to heat try the bok choy with black mushrooms, almost as meaty as sirloin tips. A special menu for kids and "baby adults" includes chicken lo mein and pork fried rice. There's a hubbub here every night, though it's somewhat different from places in Chinatown. Han Dynasty has slightly better lighting, contemporary Asian paintings on its mustard walls and a bar serving craft beers as well as wines from around the world.