Astoria remains a go-to destination for traditional Greek food in Queens, but Long Island City hosts a rival, the modern taverna Kavala, named for a picturesque port in the Aegean Sea. The whitewashed, bi-level space is a quietly appealing refuge near a busy intersection, appointed with ship models, anchors and large framed photos of harbor villages. The restaurant's olive oil comes with fresh herbs and goes nicely with warm pita, as do traditional spreads like tzatziki, skordalia and melitzana—a blend of smoky eggplant, fresh herbs and walnuts. In addition to doing simply grilled fish, the restaurant serves up labor-intensive dishes: pan-fried kefalograviera (sheep's milk) cheese splashed with ouzo and lemon, and house-made lamb ragu ravioli with feta crème fraîche, to name a few. The wine list offers refined choices from Greece and fellow EU countries.