Market-driven American fare with Italian influences is brought to new heights at this deceptively simple-looking restaurant in South Slope, a nascent enclave bordering Windsor Terrace. Chef Scott Bridi (ex–Gramercy Tavern) lovingly teases out maximum flavor from cuts of meat, passing on the value to customers. For instance, there's a beautiful dish called "Neck Three Ways," which includes house-cured pork coppa and lamb coppa as well as slowly braised duck neck served in the style of rillettes. The broad, glossy bar is the place to sink your teeth into a braised beef sandwich with Italian-style salsa verde and pickled red onions. Never fear, vegetarians—there are lots of vegetables and a meatless pasta here, too.