Sarah Obraitis and Hugue Dufour, the couple behind the fabulous M. Wells Dinette within MoMA PS 1, took a big, ambitious leap and opened a full-on steak house in late 2013. The 70-seat, concrete-floored space is a rehabbed auto body shop with enough extra room for the proprietors to build a catamaran in it on their days off. The dining room is dressed up with red paint, a wallpapered ceiling and an open kitchen, breaking the mold of how steak houses are traditionally outfitted. On the menu are a bevy of playful touches, like the "dog bowl," an iced platter of a dozen oysters, six clams, lobster tail and an additional chef's-choice seafood pick. Pretzel rolls come warm in a cinched linen bag, and desserts are wheeled around on a trolley, oftentimes requiring a "beep, beep!" to clear through the crowds. Dufour's cooking is audacious and unabashedly luxuriant, and his wife's welcome is warm and genuine, making Long Island City really, truly an eating destination.