A man hobbles in on a cane, announces he's been coming here since the 1940s and takes a skeptical look around. The caricatures, photos and cutouts cramming the dark paneled walls have been cleaned up; the gorgeous bar has a freshly polished sheen; the red banquettes have been re-covered; the floor retiled; and the pressed-tin ceiling sports a new coat of paint. The old man's eyes light up. "It looks good!" He gets a friendly greeting at the host stand and the bonhomie continues throughout the romantically lit bar and dining room. Keith McNally (of Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller's Liquor Bar and Morandi) has nailed it again. The French bistro menu emphasizes steaks and chops, but there are also well-executed fish, chicken and pasta dishes. Classic cocktails are another specialty.