Masaharu Morimoto has more than a dozen innovative, glitzy Japanese restaurants in the US and overseas, but Momosan offers simpler pleasures. It’s still chic, but more of a fast-casual concept and convenient to Grand Central Terminal. Ramen is the focus, its noodles springy in any of the four soup varieties. Tantan has the creamiest broth, a Malaysian-accented medley of spicy coconut curry, red miso, pork chashu and ground pork. In 2016, the Hiroshima-born chef published Mastering the Art of Japanese Home Cooking, which includes straightforward advice for perfecting soba and udon noodles—good news for those who will want to make them on their own.