Michael White's specialty pizzas are the draw here (carbonara; porchetta with crushed tomatoes, wild arugula and rosemary–salted pork cracklings), which you may think you can't finish but you do. The crust is neither too thin nor too thick, a firm base right to the tip, foldable and not dripping with grease. The boxy brick space is casual and well thought-out, with solidly made marble tabletops inlaid with a metal socket to hold the pizza stands so they can't be knocked over. The Italian wine list is brief and reasonably priced, and you can also get pitchers of beer and soda. White, lauded for more upscale fare at Marea, Osteria Morini and Ai Fiori, shows how pizza can be upgraded, along with antipasti, like fried mozzarella di bufala, in a golden crust that's scattered with a confetti of basil, anchovy, diced roasted peppers and Gaeta olives.