Antonio Migliaccio is a former longshoreman who grew up cooking alongside his mother and aunts on the Italian island of Ischia, in the Gulf of Naples, and gradually realized he had the chops to show New Yorkers real Italian cooking. He founded Noodle Pudding in Brooklyn Heights in 1995, and its infectious energy, pleasurable food and Zagat ratings remain undiminished. Old-school items like fried calamari, lasagna Bolognese and osso buco feel right at home in the mahogany-detailed dining room. Pay attention to the nightly specials, especially the fresh fish. And bring cash—they don’t take credit cards.