You wouldn’t peg Park Luncheonette as a place serving a stellar slice. From outside, it looks like the same Brooklyn diner it once was. Inside, it looks like a French bistro translated into Brooklynese. But park yourself at the counter, order a slice or two, and you may as well be in an old-school New York City pizzeria that hasn’t lost its way. (You need to sit at the bar if you want it by the slice.) This crisp, chewy, foldable pizza has plenty of flavor in the crust, and if a plain or pepperoni slice isn’t enough variation for you, try one of their specialty whole pizzas. The Billy Lightning is a standout, topped with caramelized onion, roasted garlic, ricotta, Parmesan and fresh-ground black pepper.