Pies 'n' Thighs (Williamsburg)

A blackboard above the open kitchen lists today's pies: "Key lime! Apple! Tar Heel! Coconut cream! Banana cream!" Wait a minute. Tar Heel? For those not from North Carolina, it resembles a brownie pie. North Carolina also figures in the vinegar-based barbecue sauce used in the pulled-pork sandwich. More regional Southern specialties include fried catfish, fried chicken and feathery light biscuits. The three friendly women behind this casual, windowed storefront have a loyal following. They take your order at the counter, where they also might tempt you with freshly baked cookies.