Portland's Andy Ricker is the master of Thai street food—here he concentrates on authentic varieties of pad Thai. The noodles are best eaten fresh out of the sizzling pan rather than a to-go container. Kuaytiaw khua kai is particularly flavorful, a Bangkok Chinatown specialty of wide rice noodles stir-fried in pork fat with chicken, cuttlefish, egg and scallions on a crunchy bed of chopped lettuce. To drink is Stumptown cold-brew coffee and bracing, fruit-flavored vinegars shipped in from Portland and spritzed with seltzer to order. Each precisely symphonized dish has multiple ingredients; the overworked kitchen staff does the best it can to address the slow-moving line of Ricker's fans.
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