Jim Lahey wrote the book on the art of bread and Roman-style pizza. His Sullivan Street Bakery started on Sullivan Street in Soho 20 years ago and the name remains the same for an all-day cafe in Hell’s Kitchen. At breakfast are soft-cooked eggs and crisp prosciutto on brioche. Pizza by the slice, sandwiches, olive oil cake and chocolate chip walnut cookies are set out at lunch. Everything is available to go or to eat at a handful of tables.